Cool, sunny, and moderately windy.

Jean was not feeling well—perhaps she really had a cold—and I needed further respite from excessive protein and fat. So we spent a day nourished chiefly by tomatoes, cucumbers, whole-grain rice and a red of St-Roch. This left more than the usual amount of time between meals, which we filled with a quiet scenic ramble by Quéribus, Maury, St-Paul-de-Fenouillet (strange little steep hillocks) and the hilltop village of Eus. From high points between Sournia and Prades (some 10 km west of Estagel and Thiur, respectively) we enjoyed suberb views—in the background the blue peaks of the Pyrénées, and closer the ever-changing mottled patterns of cloud shadows over the garrigue.